Experts use four standard measurements to compare and evaluate diamonds: Cut, carat, clarity, and color. Once you get to know the four C's, you can make informed tradeoffs based on your style preference and budget.
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| Cut and Shape |
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| Diamond shapes range from traditional round cuts to hearts, pears, and more. Your choice should reflect the tastes of the person who will be wearing the jewel.. |
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A well-cut diamond reflects light to maximize the stone's brilliance. Cut has three components:
Grade - A standard grading report describes the cut by the shape or outline of the diamond and the pattern of the facet arrangement (also known as cutting style).
Depth - How deep a stone is cut. A stone that is cut too shallow or too deep loses light through the bottom or sides of the diamond causing the stone to sparkle less.
Polish - A poor polish, or rough facets, can diminish the stone's brilliance, as well as its value.
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Image source: International Gemological Institute
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Carat |
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Diamond size is measured by weight in carats or points. Because larger diamonds are rare, prices rise considerably as carat weights increase. If your primary shopping concern is high carat weight, a moderate downgrade in carat size (e.g. 0.05) can save you a lot of money and still look beautiful.
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1 Carat = 100 Points = 200 milligrams |
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| Image source: International Gemological Institute< |
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| Clarity |
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Most diamonds contain inclusions (tiny mineral traces or flaws) often invisible to the naked eye. A diamond's clarity is determined by the amount and severity of these inclusions. Flawless diamonds are very rare and more expensive.
eBay sellers often describe the clarity of larger, solitaire diamonds by referring to the industry letter grading scale. For example, the International Gemological Institute (IGI) uses the following grading scale for clarity:
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| Color |
Most diamonds appear white to the naked eye, but they all include trace amounts of yellow color, with the most valuable diamonds falling in the colorless range. However, a deeply colored diamond such as a brilliant canary yellow diamond can cost more than its colorless counterpart.
"Fancy diamonds" (also called Z+ diamonds) come in a variety of colors including deep yellow, pink, green, orange, blue, red, and black.
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| Certification |
Many sellers include diamond appraisal (estimated retail value) and certification information in listings. Certificates, official documents issued by third-party gemological labs, include specifics about an individual gem (at least the four C's) independent of market value. It can include:
- Information about diamond quality.
- Validation that a diamond is organic.
- The serial number on the girdle of laser-inscribed diamonds.
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To buy a quality diamond:
- Make sure a reputable gemologist or gemological lab issued the grading certificate. You'll have trouble determining impartiality and stringency of no-name laboratories.
- Look for listings with a picture of the grading certificate and its serial number. Some labs offer online services where you can type in the serial number and verify that the lab graded the diamond and that the specifications are the same
- Ask sellers for more information about their process for confirming the origin of their diamonds so you don't end up buying a conflict diamond. Some eBay sellers specify their diamond "Kimberly Process confirmed." The Kimberly Process, formally launched in January 2003, attempts to certify international diamonds and identify the origins of each diamond.
Gemological Labs
Acquaint yourself with gemological labs before purchasing your diamond. Lab reputations may very and change over time. Popular labs that certify diamonds and gemstones include:
- Gemological Institute of America (GIA) - The GIA is considered by many in the industry to be the gold standard of diamond graders. Established in 1931, the not-for-profit GIA has a number of worldwide locations. It is headquartered in Carlsbad, California.
- International Gemological Institute (IGI) - Since 1975, IGI has been grading diamonds and gemstones from their headquarters in New York. IGI has expanded to 4+ locations worldwide.
- American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL) - Founded in 1978, the AGSL is based in Las Vegas, Nevada.
- European Gemological Laboratory USA (EGL-US) - There are a few independently owned grading labs that carry the EGL name. EGL-US certificates, however, are the only EGL certificates permitted in the United States. EGL-US has been independently owned since 1986, and is based in New York.
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| Other Diamonds and Crystals |
Not all diamonds come straight out of nature. Common enhanced and manufactured diamonds include:
Diamond look-alikes are also readily available.
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| Maintenance |
Although diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring substance on Earth, they still can chip. Store diamond individually in soft cloth pouches and prevent jewels from bumping against one another. Certain settings are more apt to protect your diamond:
- Four-prong setting
- Six-prong setting
- Low-profile channel or bezel settings
Regular Cleaning
Dust, skin oil, and other unclean substances can cause your diamonds to lose their sparkle.
- Clean your diamonds from time to time in soap and water.
- Air dry and polish with a soft cloth.
- Occasional brushing with a worn, soft-bristled toothbrush can help remove dirt from between crevices.
- For more resistant blemishes, use a weak solution of ammonia and water (about one part to four parts) and a soft brush.
- Treat metal settings gently as gold can scratch.
Professional Upkeep
A jeweler can clean diamonds and gems with steam or ultrasound, though ultrasound can worsen internal fissures or flaws. Also, ask your jeweler to make sure your diamonds sit tight in their settings to help prevent stones from falling out.
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